We are staying in Bayraklı, a suburb of Izmir. Our apartment, home for 2 weeks is on the 10th floor of a futuristic 47 storey tower. The Folkart Towers are an identical pair with supermarket, Starbucks, restaurants, bars and car showrooms on the ground floor. The view over northern Izmir and out to sea is amazing.
The towers seem to create their own micro-climate. Being 200 metres tall, they are sometimes exposed to stronger winds at a higher level than on the ground floor. Winds, hitting the building are deflected downwards. They whistle and howl around the building and one feels the need to wrap up warm when going outside. Only 100 metres away, all is still and the heat of the sun is undisturbed.
The wide pavement outside our tower is home to four large, homeless dogs that laze about in the sun. They keep the numerous feral cats to the other side of the busy street where they loiter around the neighbourhood camii or mosque. Yesterday, a boy, about 10 years old gave a loud whistle which sent the dogs scurrying away. They were obviously old aquaintances. As the lad joinded a young friend they made their way up the street trying various mopeds and scooters for size.
The narrow streets (or Sokaks) opposite, consist of old, poor qualty housing packed into a confined space. Here, tiny shops, cafes and hairdressers manage to scrape a living. Boys play football in the street and the ball lands at my feet as I pass. I decline the obvious invitation to join in. I'm getting too old for a kick about. In the next street two women have placed a couple of old sofas under a tree. They are accompanied by three youngsters, perhaps their grandchildren. Their evening meal is cooking on an open fire.
Beyond these streets are more modern developments. A large hospital, offices shops and apartments. Everywhere, coffee shops are to be found. Near the hospital, three large establishments sit side by side, devoid of customers. The numerous hairdressers, barbers, beauty salons and nail bars, on the other hand, all do a roaring trade. Life goes on through the night, for a large restaurant offers kebaps, pide, pizza and burgers around the clock. A fleet of motorcycles makes home deliveries.
We sat yesterday at our favourite coffee shop watching the world go by. A man with an electric vehicle, rather like a motor rickshaw, did his round of businesses, collecting cardboard packaging for recycling. A boy, no more than about 8 or 9, off school for the public holidsy delivered bag after bag of bread and fruit to nearby catering establishments.
Then came the cry of a hawker who eventually appeared, draped in large Turkish flags. He did sell three to a woman from the fashion studio opposite. As we walked home, we realised flags and pictures of Ataturk were appearing everywhere. The 29th October is Republic Day, the most important public holiday and celebration of the year. The day commemorates the occassion, 101 years ago when Kemal Mustapha (Ataturk) declared Turkey a republic, thus endjng the Osmanli Empire which had been decimated by the World War. Large parades, fireworks and music are anticipated.
The suburban railway station is a 10 minute walk from our apartment and trains are frequent. It is only a short ride into Alsancak, one of the city centre districts. Our pre-charged public transport cards are scanned on entry to the station; an efficient and simple system. Alsancak is a busy shopping area as well as being a centre for entertainment. There are numerous restaurants, bars and clubs catering for a diverse range of interests and tastes. Leaving the station, we join a large and growing crowd who wait patiently in order, when the traffic police make up their minds, to cross the busy road. The route to the waterfront is lined with restaurants offering varieties of kebaps and many shops selling all kinds of tourist tat. All is intended for local consumption for it is unusual to see a foreign visitor here. One wonders though, who would buy this rubbish or wear those luridly coloured clothes.
At the waterfront, all is calm. Plenty of people sit enjoying the warm sunshine and a traditionally dressed woman tries to sell flowers to the visitors. Ferries frequently shuttle backwards and forwards taking passengers to the outer suburbs on the northern shore.
Izmir is an important port, located on a large sheltered inlet of the Aegean Sea. Three tug boats fussed around an inbound tanker and guided her to her berth.
Interesting to see another part of Izmir but a pleasure to return to the relative peace of Bayraklı.
Cats are everywhere. They think they rule the streets and go where they please. They will sit at your feet while you enjoy a meal in a restaurant or stand in your way in the supermarket aisle. Nobody ever moves them on. Today, in the bazaar, a black cat stalked a large dog which looked cowed and scared. Some market traders looked on and one went to comfort and reassure the homeless kopek. Only the crows get the better of these cats. They brazenly taunt the felines which skulk away in defeat.
The bazaar incident took place in the street of Optik traders. Whether these are opticians or just dealers in glasses is uncertain but they are all gathered together in a corner of the market, there must be about 20 of them all in close competition. Selling glasses can be very profitable.
Likewise, much money is to be made from matrimony. On the road leading from our apartment are 5 or 6 wedding venues. These are large gardens laid out with tables and chairs arranged around a canopied platform. Associated buildings provide catrring and other facilities. Every weekend these gardens fill with wedding guests and loud music fills thd air, sometimes a dreadful cacophony as the different sites try to outdo each other. These events are supported by the shops of Gazi Bulvari where dozens of outfitters offer wedding dresses and shiny men's suits. Thèse large expensive looking shops sit side by side on both sides of this broad tree lined street, all in neighbourly competition. One wonders just how many weddings they have here in Izmir.
Saturday afternoon and plenty of people were out enjoying the sunshine on Izmir's north shore. As usual, there were many who tried to earn money from the visitors. Coloufully dressed women offered flowers to sell, a makeshift cart carried coffee and tea and a man in a wheelchair had little packets of tissues. Bottled water, cool from a chiller box found a ready market but it was the young boy with helium fiĺled balloons who found the most custom. He started with so many that he must have been at risk of taking to the skies.
The Kemeralti Bazaar in Izmir seems vast. It's narrow streets are like a rabbit warren and once inside it feels impossible to escape. There must be hundreds of stalls selling clothing, fresh fruit and vegetables, freshly caught fish and the inevitable souvenirs. Cafes offer hot drinks and a kebap menu whilst stalls selling freshly squeezed fruit juice are never far away.
Homeless cats loiter around the fish market waiting for the opportunity to steal a tasty meal while their canine counterparts laze in sunny courtyards.
Between the Bazaar and the sea is Konak Meydani, the main square of Izmir. The elaborately decorated clock tower was built in 1901 although it looks much older. Nearby is a diminutive mosque, the Konak Camii built in 1755.
Konak Iskele is only a short distance away and from here, ferry boats make regular crossings to Bostanli and Karsikiya on the norther shore. It's only a 15 minute crossing but the passengers are entertained by a couple of young men singing traditional folk songs.
Most cars are white and of similar style. More than 50%. A further 25% are grey. Renault and Volkswagens are most popular. It seems that white cars are considerably less expensive and easier to sell second hand. They reflect the sunlight so tend to be cooler inside. So identical white cars are everywhere. How ever do they know which are their own.
The north shore of Izmir is quieter than the south. The waterfront is laid out with parks and gardens for a considerable length and these feature a number of monuments including a group of dolphins rising from a water feature and busts of notable people. A road leads into the sky, a monument to human rights, dedicated to Olof Palme and Willy Brandt.
The most notable monuments feature Ataturk as they do throughout Turkey. His image is ever preset, watching benevolently over the populace.
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